Normally
I spend an entire week on Cape Cod…always in September. This year I wasn’t
expecting to be there at all. My original plans were to drive up the coast of
Maine to Lubec, to visit friends. However, my friend Elizabeth, who was going with
me, fell in May and broke her hip. No trip to Maine this year!
As
it turned out, the cottage I have stayed in every year since 1990 is not being
rented this year. I had to stay two nights in a motel…that was an adventure.
Why only two nights and not a week? Money! I wanted to save part of my vacation dollars for airline tickets to be used in October.
The
drive there and back
It seems that I rarely leave the house without forgetting something. Usually I'm still just outside the door when I remember whatever. This time, I was about half a mile from the house when I remembered I forgot to take out the garbage. You bet I turned around and went back!
I could have gone straight up to the Mass Turnpike in Springfield to begin my trip. I decided I don’t like driving a stretch of I-91 in Springfield, so I would go cross country and pick up I-84 in Vernon the way I used to do when I lived in South Windsor. By the time I had reached the point of no return, I decided that was a dumb idea. I would have made much better time had I done the Springfield route.
I could have gone straight up to the Mass Turnpike in Springfield to begin my trip. I decided I don’t like driving a stretch of I-91 in Springfield, so I would go cross country and pick up I-84 in Vernon the way I used to do when I lived in South Windsor. By the time I had reached the point of no return, I decided that was a dumb idea. I would have made much better time had I done the Springfield route.
Coming home, I
intended to exit the Mass Turnpike at I-291, take that to I-91 in Springfield
and then home. Some habits are hard to break. I automatically got off on the
I-84 exit, which took me the same long way around that I took going.
My Motel
When you buy
cheap, you get cheap. The Viking Shores in Eastham has seen better days. The
first night, when I took my shower, the tub became ankle deep in water and took
an hour and a half to drain. I went to the office the next morning to complain
and they gave me the room next door.
I checked the
tub, toilet, sink…everything seemed to be functioning properly. When I went to
take my shower that night, I turned on the light, which also turns on the
ventilation fan. All was well for about 2 minutes, and before I could get in
the tub, the fan began sounding like a jet that was going to take the room into
outer space. Off the switch! Wash up at the sink.
Next time I’ll
stay somewhere else…if I can find another cheap room.
Beach
Destruction
An article in
the Boston Globe this
past June stated, “Most of the damage was delivered by two nor’easters — a
blizzard with hurricane-force gusts in February and a three-day gale in March…
.” I had to see it for my self. From the reports I read in the Cape Cod
Times online the breach
of the dunes at the Pamet marsh and river in Truro was the worst. This wasn’t
the first time the barrier dunes had been breached.
Coast Guard Beach looking south over Nauset Marsh toward the inlet
When I got
arrived in Eastham around 1 p.m., I went immediately to Coast Guard Beach to
see how things were. The first thing I looked for is the inlet to Nauset Marsh.
It looked to be about ¾ of a mile from Coast Guard Beach, same as last year,
but it also looked narrower. I would get a better look on Wednesday when I
walked out there. Coast Guard Beach, itself, showed signs of being battered.
Looking south along Nauset Light Beach
Next stop was
Nauset Light Beach. The stairs to the beach are still there, but I don’t know
if they had been repaired after the battering they took. From the steps I could
see pipes and metal rods sticking out of what had been the dunes. I don’t know
what they used to be attached to, but now all they do is stick out in mid air.
Marconi site showing how close the edge of the dune is
The Marconi Site
in Wellfleet was next. I wanted to see how close the edge of the dune was to
where the kiosk had been that showed a diorama of what the first transatlantic
wireless site looked like. The kiosk was gone and it was hard to tell where it
had been. I did find a few chunks of brick and concrete and posts that were
part of the original site. That’s all that is left.
Cahoon Hollow showing fragile dunes, looking south
A brief stop at
Lecount Hollow and on to Cahoon Hollow both in Wellfleet. At Cahoon Hollow
there’s a restaurant and bar called The Beachcomber. Every year the parking lot
between the building and the edge of the dunes gets narrower. This year was no
exception. The dunes here are so fragile that no access to the beach is allowed
at all. That doesn’t stop some people, though.
"... storms carried away 20 feet or
more of shoreline, leaving behind steep, unstable dune faces that were unsafe
for pedestrians. (Cape Cod Times online, Sept. 24, 2013, 'Wellfleet grapples with
erosion's economic toll'")
All that sand is not supposed to be there
My next stop was
where the most destruction happened and that was at Balston Beach where the
barrier dunes were breached and the Pamet marsh and river were flooded. The
barrier dunes have been breached before in recent years and with rising ocean
waters, they will be breached again.
My last stop was
Provincetown. I didn’t visit any beaches here. I walked Macmillan Wharf, and
stopped at Cabot’s for their delicious fudge. These two activities are
traditional with me.
Restaurants
and dining with old friends
While in
Provincetown, I decided to have late lunch/early supper at the Mayflower
Restaurant. My first choice would have been Napi’s, but they were not open for
dinner yet. As it turned out, why didn’t I think of going to the Lobster Pot?
Instead I went to the Mayflower and because I traditionally have lobster at
least once while I’m on the Cape, I ordered Lazy Man’s Lobster Tails with
stuffing. Second time I’ve had a bad meal there, but the first time didn’t cost
me $25! Lesson learned. The lobster could have been cardboard for all I could
taste.
On Wednesday, I
connected with Heidi, a second cousin by marriage. We had not seen each other
for 40 years and it was good to do a lot of catching up. Heidi took me to the
Orleans Inn for lunch. The company and the New England clam chowder were
excellent.
Thursday was go
home day, but not before I connected with my childhood friend, Betty. We grew
up together at a time when South Windsor was almost all farming. More catching
up and lunch at the Marshside Restaurant in East Dennis. Once again, excellent
company and food.
After more
talking back at Betty’s house, it was time to hit the road home. I left Dennis
at 3 p.m. Once I got onto the Mass Turnpike I stopped at the first rest area
for coffee and an internet connection. Arrived home around 6:45.
Traditions
I have certain
traditions when I go to the Cape. You know about the lobster, visiting all the
beaches, walking Macmillan Wharf. I also stop at the National Seashore
Visitors’ Center in Eastham and browse their bookstore. This year I came out of
there $45 lighter. Another is I must stop at the Eastham General Store to buy
my Cape Cod Calendar for the next year. Then it’s off to the Birdwatcher’s
General Store in Orleans for my annual linen calendar. A trip to Cape Cod
wouldn’t feel right if I didn’t do those things
Miscellaneous
One of the
reasons I chose the Viking Shores motel, was the bike path runs right behind
it. I did bring my bike, but alas, it stayed in the room the whole time. I had
no time for riding.
I have posted
some pictures here, but there are a lot more at my facebook albums.
You can see them by clicking here
You can see them by clicking here
and
Hopefully you
can see these albums without being a member of Facebook.
