Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Cape Cod 2013


Normally I spend an entire week on Cape Cod…always in September. This year I wasn’t expecting to be there at all. My original plans were to drive up the coast of Maine to Lubec, to visit friends. However, my friend Elizabeth, who was going with me, fell in May and broke her hip. No trip to Maine this year!

As it turned out, the cottage I have stayed in every year since 1990 is not being rented this year. I had to stay two nights in a motel…that was an adventure. Why only two nights and not a week? Money! I wanted to save part of my vacation dollars for airline tickets to be used in October.

The drive there and back
It seems that I rarely leave the house without forgetting something. Usually I'm still just outside the door when I remember whatever. This time, I was about half a mile from the house when I remembered I forgot to take out the garbage. You bet I turned around and went back!

I could have gone straight up to the Mass Turnpike in Springfield to begin my trip. I decided I don’t like driving a stretch of I-91 in Springfield, so I would go cross country and pick up I-84 in Vernon the way I used to do when I lived in South Windsor. By the time I had reached the point of no return, I decided that was a dumb idea. I would have made much better time had I done the Springfield route.

Coming home, I intended to exit the Mass Turnpike at I-291, take that to I-91 in Springfield and then home. Some habits are hard to break. I automatically got off on the I-84 exit, which took me the same long way around that I took going.

My Motel
When you buy cheap, you get cheap. The Viking Shores in Eastham has seen better days. The first night, when I took my shower, the tub became ankle deep in water and took an hour and a half to drain. I went to the office the next morning to complain and they gave me the room next door.

I checked the tub, toilet, sink…everything seemed to be functioning properly. When I went to take my shower that night, I turned on the light, which also turns on the ventilation fan. All was well for about 2 minutes, and before I could get in the tub, the fan began sounding like a jet that was going to take the room into outer space. Off the switch! Wash up at the sink.

Next time I’ll stay somewhere else…if I can find another cheap room.

Beach Destruction
An article in the Boston Globe this past June stated, “Most of the damage was delivered by two nor’easters — a blizzard with hurricane-force gusts in February and a three-day gale in March… .” I had to see it for my self. From the reports I read in the Cape Cod Times online the breach of the dunes at the Pamet marsh and river in Truro was the worst. This wasn’t the first time the barrier dunes had been breached.



Coast Guard Beach looking south over Nauset Marsh toward the inlet

When I got arrived in Eastham around 1 p.m., I went immediately to Coast Guard Beach to see how things were. The first thing I looked for is the inlet to Nauset Marsh. It looked to be about ¾ of a mile from Coast Guard Beach, same as last year, but it also looked narrower. I would get a better look on Wednesday when I walked out there. Coast Guard Beach, itself, showed signs of being battered.


Looking south along Nauset Light Beach

Next stop was Nauset Light Beach. The stairs to the beach are still there, but I don’t know if they had been repaired after the battering they took. From the steps I could see pipes and metal rods sticking out of what had been the dunes. I don’t know what they used to be attached to, but now all they do is stick out in mid air.


Marconi site showing how close the edge of the dune is

The Marconi Site in Wellfleet was next. I wanted to see how close the edge of the dune was to where the kiosk had been that showed a diorama of what the first transatlantic wireless site looked like. The kiosk was gone and it was hard to tell where it had been. I did find a few chunks of brick and concrete and posts that were part of the original site. That’s all that is left.


Cahoon Hollow showing fragile dunes, looking south

A brief stop at Lecount Hollow and on to Cahoon Hollow both in Wellfleet. At Cahoon Hollow there’s a restaurant and bar called The Beachcomber. Every year the parking lot between the building and the edge of the dunes gets narrower. This year was no exception. The dunes here are so fragile that no access to the beach is allowed at all. That doesn’t stop some people, though.
"... storms carried away 20 feet or more of shoreline, leaving behind steep, unstable dune faces that were unsafe for pedestrians. (Cape Cod Times online, Sept. 24, 2013, 'Wellfleet grapples with erosion's economic toll'")


All that sand is not supposed to be there

My next stop was where the most destruction happened and that was at Balston Beach where the barrier dunes were breached and the Pamet marsh and river were flooded. The barrier dunes have been breached before in recent years and with rising ocean waters, they will be breached again.

My last stop was Provincetown. I didn’t visit any beaches here. I walked Macmillan Wharf, and stopped at Cabot’s for their delicious fudge. These two activities are traditional with me.

Restaurants and dining with old friends
While in Provincetown, I decided to have late lunch/early supper at the Mayflower Restaurant. My first choice would have been Napi’s, but they were not open for dinner yet. As it turned out, why didn’t I think of going to the Lobster Pot? Instead I went to the Mayflower and because I traditionally have lobster at least once while I’m on the Cape, I ordered Lazy Man’s Lobster Tails with stuffing. Second time I’ve had a bad meal there, but the first time didn’t cost me $25! Lesson learned. The lobster could have been cardboard for all I could taste.

On Wednesday, I connected with Heidi, a second cousin by marriage. We had not seen each other for 40 years and it was good to do a lot of catching up. Heidi took me to the Orleans Inn for lunch. The company and the New England clam chowder were excellent.

Thursday was go home day, but not before I connected with my childhood friend, Betty. We grew up together at a time when South Windsor was almost all farming. More catching up and lunch at the Marshside Restaurant in East Dennis. Once again, excellent company and food.

After more talking back at Betty’s house, it was time to hit the road home. I left Dennis at 3 p.m. Once I got onto the Mass Turnpike I stopped at the first rest area for coffee and an internet connection. Arrived home around 6:45.

Traditions
I have certain traditions when I go to the Cape. You know about the lobster, visiting all the beaches, walking Macmillan Wharf. I also stop at the National Seashore Visitors’ Center in Eastham and browse their bookstore. This year I came out of there $45 lighter. Another is I must stop at the Eastham General Store to buy my Cape Cod Calendar for the next year. Then it’s off to the Birdwatcher’s General Store in Orleans for my annual linen calendar. A trip to Cape Cod wouldn’t feel right if I didn’t do those things

Miscellaneous
One of the reasons I chose the Viking Shores motel, was the bike path runs right behind it. I did bring my bike, but alas, it stayed in the room the whole time. I had no time for riding.

I have posted some pictures here, but there are a lot more at my facebook albums.

You can see them by clicking here

and

here 

Hopefully you can see these albums without being a member of Facebook.