Sunday, March 17, 2013

Losing More of Cape Cod


In January of 2011, there was a story in the Cape Cod Times about a cottage in Wellfleet that had partially fallen onto the beach far below after a bad storm. It was at the end of Nellie Road…a place I’m familiar with. The story inspired me to write a poem, “Cottage at the End of the Road.”

This past week there was another story, same scenario, only this was just a bit north of Nellie Rd., on Cliff Rd. The owner of the Cliff Rd. home was never told the cottage had already been moved back twice before she bought it 15 years ago. She moved it back once, herself, thinking that would be enough. It had to be enough, she had no more room to move it again. And now, another storm has taken another cottage.

Every year, for the last 20 or more years, I have vacationed for a week in mid-September in this area. Every year I have driven past these cottages and wondered how much longer could they hang on. I wonder no more.

My heart goes out to these cottage owners. I can feel the emotions they must feel when a place they loved so much, a place that has been so healing, is now gone. The void in the heart is vast. And the cottage is no longer there to heal the pain.

Yes, it’s a material thing. No, it’s more than that. There is a magic that is Cape Cod and being on the edge of the dunes, watching the storms come in and weathering them for years, it is unthinkable that one day it will not be there any more. It’s unthinkable that Mother Nature, whose strength and beauty I have admired and loved for so long, would do this to me.

I have personalized someone else’s pain.

What of all the other owners whose cottages are facing the same fate…sooner rather than later. I feel their emotions in my gut…first the denial, then the anger for having been betrayed. Then sad realization that the end is inevitable.

Cottage at the End of the Road
The last cottage on Nellie Road
was built within half a mile of the dune’s edge
and steep descent to the beach.
It was part of a summer community
where children ran free.

They came to the cottage as babies
and would never sever their ties—
returning year after year,
bringing their babies to grow strong
and berry-brown.

Spring 1938 was the beginning of its first year.
In September, it was on the outer fringe
of the Long Island Express
that battered its way north into New England.

When the sun came out, those who came to look
were amazed at the sight of trees stripped of leaves
roads washed out and dunes undercut by the vicious
onslaught of an angry ocean.

The cottage withstood many storms,
standing strong in the teeth of every storm—
hurricanes Carol, Diane, Bob,
Blizzard of ’78,
Halloween storm of ’96.
and countless storms inbetween.
Every one of them insidiously
ate away at the dunes.

Homeowners along the dune line
knew for years their summer places were doomed,
especially when Nauset Light was moved back
before it could tumble onto the beach below.
It wouldn’t have been the first time.

As 2010 came to a close,
the dunes were assaulted by another winter storm.
The old cottage couldn’t hang on any longer.
The porch hung over the abyss
created by mammoth waves slamming into the dune 
causing deep undercutting and collapse.

The beach below was strewn with porch furniture
and splinters that used to be the porch floor.
The cottage hung there, defying gravity, clinging to life.

Seagulls cried in despair
as the landscape of their sand cliffs
was rendered unrecognizable.
So many lost so much that day.

The demolition order was issued.
Yellow tape went up on the beach
to keep human scavengers at a distance.
It was a crime scene.

A construction crane lumbered down Nellie Road
to finish the job the ocean started.
Dump trucks lined up to receive the wreckage
from the clamshell’s maw
as the family and the seagulls looked on.

Beverly R. Titus
01/07/11